Wednesday, December 17, 2014

The Myth of a Post-Racial Society

The American myth of a “post-racial society” has gotten several blows recently. After the deaths of Eric Garner in July and Michael Brown last August and the controversial court decisions relevant to both cases, the African American community of the United-States is angry, as it should be. The concerns raised by these recent events push, once again, for a debate – and actions – about racism in America.

The reality is that the fate of all working class and middle class African Americans is no better than before: there is no proof of any advancement in mentalities and institutions of a less racist society. Although racism knows no rational frontiers, it does prevail – at its utmost violence – in the lower fringes of society, in which people have no social power, nor political representation. This is what recent events have shown.

This statement can actually extend to the whole of the working class, regardless of race. Indeed some say that the black community “makes” these events racial because they’re “just looking for a reason to riot and loot” – and fair enough, statistics are not very revealing, the factors and variables taken into account varying from one source to the other. But to go further, we can also well say that stop-and-search practices, more targeting minorities, inevitably show them more in records, since they are therefore numerically higher from the start in the variables – a long-known problem making statistics to be treated with great care.

Here is a sad truth that statistics could not explain more intelligently, as told to me by Nick, a young ex-NY policeman who preferred not to divulge his last name: “I decided to leave my job with the NYPD because the department’s command was going in a direction that I really didn't agree with. The New York Police Department has 40,000 officers… it's huge… and I was just a number in their system.”

“I felt like a lot of what they are doing violates the rights of the people and I no longer felt like I was "protecting and serving" the people of New York. I felt like a storm trooper from Star Wars: we were doing nothing but abusing the citizens. I was told to stop people at random and pat them down for weapons or drugs, especially minorities, even if they did nothing wrong.”

“I spoke to my Captain and my superiors about how it didn't feel right and I was just told "do your job, or someone else will". It felt terrible leaving, but my integrity as a person is more important than any job I will ever do. I used to feel like I was doing something good and noble… America is changing, and it isn't good.”

We should not have had to go as far as having murders to see that the American police forces have a problem of dealing with the population. It is by looking away for too long that such tragic events have been able to occur in our democracy – and by ignoring History. For racism is a social construct, and as all social inventions and practices, it can change through time. Remember that black lynchings were happening not so long ago.


There was also a time where the Greeks of America were prey to racism and harassment for their “Oriental” features and ways of living: back in the 1910s, at the time of the large wave of immigration from Southeastern Europe on the one hand, and from the rural slave American states on the other, Greeks and blacks had more in common than one would think today. 


Greeks back in the days were not considered white, but swarthy if not black. The frustration borne out of the bigotry they endured led some Greek-Americans to found the AHEPA, the American Hellenic Educational Progressive Association, which could be considered the equivalent of the black NAACP, the National Association for the Advancement of Colored People. The AHEPA, created in 1922, fought stereotypes and abuse of Greek immigrants and Americans of Hellenic descent, and helped them assimilate into the American society.

Greeks were notably politically and economically harassed by the Ku Klux Klan which, as is too easily forgotten today, was extensively powerful throughout Northern America at that time. In 1990, the AHEPA and the NAACP even worked hand in hand in Georgia for a law banning the wearing of masks by KKK members, in order “to protect the public from intimidation and violence and to aid law enforcement officials in apprehending criminals”.

Greeks have now become white and, although having their little cultural eccentricities (for those who like to exhibit them), they are accepted and considered as well-assimilated in the American society. Race, as a concept, is social, and race evolves. Race as applied to African Americans has also evolved through time: there is no more slavery; laws for more proportionality have been enforced in schools and universities, and there is no more institutionalized segregation as in the time of the Jim Crow laws.

This does not mean that we are in a “post-racial” society though – otherwise such reforms would be useless. Blacks (and women) are still under-paid, and black children do not have the same opportunities from the beginning of their life as white children, starting from school districts. Of course the same divide is true for working classes and higher classes regardless of race – a concept not addressed enough in our country, where indeed sometimes we tend to blame racism too much and not enough social disparities.

In any case, merely saying that our society is “post-racial” does not make it so – the very fact that we feel the need to say it proves that it is still a concern. This is an illusion reinforced by the fact that the American president is black, but does that mean that the African American community is better off than before? Politics remain politics, Congress remains Congress, interests remain interests, and a President remains a President, with all its power and constraints at the same time. Whoever our President, whatever his color, America remains a deeply divided society, both socially and racially. Let us just hope that no more murders will have to occur before we address these issues wisely.

Published in The National Herald, December 25, 2014, "Viewpoints" section p.13

Tuesday, December 2, 2014

Thassos, the Aegean Emerald


Forget Athens and the Cycladic islands: GO THASSOS! You'll find this remote piece of heaven easy to fall in love with.

Being part of the not-so-touristy North-Eastern part of Greece, the Macedonian island of Thassos is not very well-known although conveniently close to the coast. You can either cross from Keramoti, near Kavala International Airport, or take a longer boat trip from the harbor city of Kavala which is worth the visit - and where I have tasted the best frappé ever, I cannot emphasize that enough. A 2,5-hour bus ride from Thessaloniki will take you there easily.

Thassos is the Northernmost island in Greece, making it a green spot remote from the beautiful but sun-dried Southern landscape. Instead, Thassos offers the same clean and clear-blue sea together with dense and varied forests: although in recent years the island’s woodland has suffered some forest fires, it is still known for its pine trees – what a wonderful scent all over the place – and shrubberies near rivers and lakes.

Again, spring is the best season to go there as the nature then reveals its magic at its full potential. What is more, a heavy tourism from East Europe, Russia and England can be felt during the two hottest months of summer; but in underrated Thassos, it is easy to enjoy the warm climate of June or September while being the only stranger on the island: I was literally the first and only resident of the whole hostel I was in. 


Once landed in the island capital also named Thassos, or Limenas Thassou (“harbor of Thassos”), I take the time to go to its little and very well arranged museum. Going through the History of this tiny Empire in a nutshell, it tells how Thassos was known for its fine products such as nuts and white marble – a great stone and marble wall had been encircling the harbor against intruders. But most of all, Thassos was famous for its fruity wine so particular that the wine god Dionysus’ head was engraved on Thasian coins.

But the island was also a major commercial and political spot owing to its large gold and silver mines. It naturally attracted the interest of colonizers: Phoenicians, Greeks – from the Cycladic island Paros or Athens’ central power –, Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans... Not that Thassos complied easily. It sometimes even fought quite honorably for its independence; but as often times with islands, rebellions were crushed by the main power of the day.

Coming back out in the sun, multiple options are open to me: go into the ancient agora right next to the museum? Wander a little further and have a nice meal in a restaurant along the historical harbor? Take a walk up into the small and pretty pedestrian streets and bushy hill to end up on top of the city’s ancient theater, offering a splendid view of the sea and the city below? Or go the beach just at the end of the port, where you can swim in clear-blue waters beneath shadowy pine trees? Tough choice.

Going further South, on the Eastern coast lies the “Golden Beach”: a whole kilometer of white-sanded beach against a backdrop of mountainous forest, waiting for towels to be spread, sand-castles to be built and photos to be taken. There are many hotels and camping places nearby – both denaturing and convenient. It is the most famous beach of the island, but Thassos is surrounded by beautiful spots and walks anyway, thus offering plenty of alternatives.

There are other historical sites spread throughout the island as well: on the South-Eastern part of it, the Monastery of Archangel Michael sits on the road between the villages of Astrida and Alyki, with a beautiful view of the sea; nearby is the worthwhile archeological site of Alyki, on the coast also named the “Holy rock of Thassos”; and on the South-Western coast, Limenaria offers the earliest settlement to have been explored, with remains from the Middle and Late Neolithic.

My tenant back in Limenas Thassou, who has been absolutely lovely and helpful, advised me to go to Prinos’ market when going back by the Western side. Taking place on Monday mornings, it is in fact a regular street market, but as everywhere else in Greece it is indeed something worth the trip. Whether it be for the low prices and juicy, sundrenched fruits, or just for the ambience with people chatting and sellers barking their deals, the Greek market is
 never a boring experience.

Back in the capital to take the last ferry – there won’t be any seagulls following the boat at that time, too bad – I enjoy a last walk along the harbor. Even at night the water is warm, and so clear that I can see the rocks on the bottom with my own shadow projected by the distant city lights.