Forget Athens and the Cycladic islands: GO THASSOS!
You'll find this remote piece of heaven easy to fall in love with.
Being part of the not-so-touristy North-Eastern part of Greece, the Macedonian island of Thassos is not very
well-known although conveniently close to the coast. You can either cross from
Keramoti, near Kavala International Airport, or take a longer boat trip from
the harbor city of Kavala which is worth the visit - and where I have tasted
the best frappé ever, I cannot emphasize that enough. A 2,5-hour bus ride from
Thessaloniki will take you there easily.
Thassos is the Northernmost island in
Greece, making it a green spot remote from the beautiful but sun-dried Southern
landscape. Instead, Thassos offers the same clean and clear-blue sea together
with dense and varied forests: although in recent years the island’s woodland
has suffered some forest fires, it is still known for its pine trees – what a
wonderful scent all over the place – and shrubberies near rivers and lakes.
Again, spring is the best season to go
there as the nature then reveals its magic at its full potential. What is more,
a heavy tourism from East Europe, Russia and England can be felt during the two
hottest months of summer; but in underrated Thassos, it is easy to enjoy the
warm climate of June or September while being the only stranger on the island:
I was literally the first and only resident of the whole hostel I was in.
Once landed in the island capital also
named Thassos, or Limenas Thassou (“harbor of Thassos”), I take the time to go
to its little and very well arranged museum. Going through the History of this
tiny Empire in a nutshell, it tells how Thassos was known for its fine products
such as nuts and white marble – a great stone and marble wall had been
encircling the harbor against intruders. But most of all, Thassos was famous
for its fruity wine so particular that the wine god Dionysus’ head was engraved
on Thasian coins.
But the island was also a major commercial
and political spot owing to its large gold and silver mines. It naturally
attracted the interest of colonizers: Phoenicians, Greeks – from the Cycladic
island Paros or Athens’ central power –, Romans, Byzantines, Ottomans... Not
that Thassos complied easily. It sometimes even fought quite honorably for its
independence; but as often times with islands, rebellions were crushed by the
main power of the day.
Coming back out in the sun, multiple
options are open to me: go into the ancient agora right next to the museum? Wander
a little further and have a nice meal in a restaurant along the historical
harbor? Take a walk up into the small and pretty pedestrian streets and bushy
hill to end up on top of the city’s ancient theater, offering a splendid view
of the sea and the city below? Or go the beach just at the end of the port,
where you can swim in clear-blue waters beneath shadowy pine trees? Tough choice.
Going further South, on the Eastern coast
lies the “Golden Beach”: a whole kilometer of white-sanded beach against a
backdrop of mountainous forest, waiting for towels to be spread, sand-castles
to be built and photos to be taken. There are many hotels and camping places
nearby – both denaturing and convenient. It is the most famous beach of the
island, but Thassos is surrounded by beautiful spots and walks anyway, thus
offering plenty of alternatives.
There are other historical sites spread
throughout the island as well: on the South-Eastern part of it, the Monastery
of Archangel Michael sits on the road between the villages of Astrida and Alyki,
with a beautiful view of the sea; nearby is the worthwhile archeological site
of Alyki, on the coast also named the “Holy rock of Thassos”; and on the
South-Western coast, Limenaria offers the earliest settlement to have been
explored, with remains from the Middle and Late Neolithic.
My tenant back in Limenas Thassou, who has
been absolutely lovely and helpful, advised me to go to Prinos’ market when
going back by the Western side. Taking place on Monday mornings, it is in fact
a regular street market, but as everywhere else in Greece it is indeed
something worth the trip. Whether it be for the low prices and juicy,
sundrenched fruits, or just for the ambience with people chatting and sellers
barking their deals, the Greek market is
never a boring experience.
Back in the capital to take the last ferry
– there won’t be any seagulls following the boat at that time, too bad – I
enjoy a last walk along the harbor. Even at night the water is warm, and so
clear that I can see the rocks on the bottom with my own shadow projected by
the distant city lights.
Article published in The National Herald on October 10, 2014
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